NEW YORK CITY AND HANGER STEAK
Two old friends recently made a college visitation trip to New York, Connecticut and New England. During a brief hiatus from campus tours they found themselves in the SOHO area of NYC. To be more exact, they had stumbled upon my culinary alma mater: The French Culinary Institute (FCI). After reading the menu of the school's student run restaurant, L'ECOLE, they ventured in for lunch. Although I am biased, L'ECOLE is an outstanding option for lunch and dinner in NYC. The kitchen is staffed by FCI students in their final block of instruction prior to the final exam. The pastry and bread served in the restaurant is made by the bread and pastry track students at FCI. The menu is developed by the FCI Chef instructors and Deans. To drop a few names: FCI Deans Andre Soltner (Lutece), Jacques Torres MOF (Le Cirque, Torres Chocolate), Alain Saihac (Le Cygne, Le Cirque) and Jacques Pepin (eminent cookbook author and teacher) all have a hand in the menu. For $28 USD and a wine pairing option, it is a great lunch deal in NYC. Luckily for my friends, Hanger steak or Onglet was on the lunch menu that day.
Hanger steak is a personal favorite in our home. I am a bit hesitant in divulging the virtues of the hanger steak lest it becomes known and suffers the fate of monk fish, striped bass or Patagonia tooth fish (Chilean Sea Bass). In other words drastic price increases, supply shortages and "ear ring-tattooed" trendy chefs destroying the purity of the cut. Case in point: years ago a brilliant Chef in NYC named Gilbert Le Coze owned, along with his sister Maguy, the restaurant named Le Bernardin. During the 80's and until his untimely death in 1994, Chef Le Coze led a kitchen brigade that dedicated itself to all things sea food. Le Bernardin was known then as now, Eric Ripert took over after Le Coze's death, for exquisite preparations and combinations of fish that Americans had never heard of. His roasted prosciutto wrapped monk fish sliced table-side like a Chateaubriand served with a saffron, Pernod cream started a country wide demand for the fish previously known as "poor mans lobster." As monk fish began showing up in all types of restaurants throughout the 80's and 90's, prices soared and availability became scarce.
Which leads us to Onglet. Known as a "butchers cut," because the butcher kept it for himself and didn't sell it to the public. In France it is known as "Bistrot Steak" and in England, "Skirt." The consistency is similar to flank steak but with a bold flavor that lends itself to many classic accompaniments. In San Diego, it sells for approximately $8 per pound and is readily available...right now anyway. If you are interested in a great cut of meat that offers a unique texture and ten times the flavor of the venerable Filet Mignon, than the Hanger / Onglet is for you.
When preparing and serving Onglet we adhere to a strict tongue-in-cheek procedure. Close all the windows, turn up the music (a'la Tony Soprano) so no one outside hears we are serving Onglet. Pull the cork on a big red wine. Montelena, Heitz cabernet or a Burgundian pinot works well here. Season the steak with salt and pepper. Seer well in olive oil and whole butter. Turn and place paper thin slices of shallot across the steaks. When the steaks reach medium rare, remove and allow to rest for 5-10 minutes on a small over turned plate. This is done so the juices re-absorb in to the meat and the steak doesn't sit in any run-off juices which boils it and renders it well done shoe leather. Also, you don't get a big puddle of blood on the plate when you cut in, thus losing all the flavor and the perfect pink color. Present with truffled pomme darphin, a small salad and artisanal bread with demi-sel butter. Sprinkle Fleur de Sel on the steaks and enjoy. When dinner is over: open the windows, turn the music down and have your guests sign a non-disclosure agreement as to the menu and origin of this fabulous cut off meat.
Oh... this dinner screams for a single malt scotch or cognac as a closer.
