Sunday, August 29, 2010

ROASTED CHICKEN WITH SAGE AND LEMON

1- Free range roasting chicken
1- Small lemon, sliced
1- Small onion or shallot chopped into eighths
6- Sage Leaves, chopped
3- Tbl. unsalted butter, room temperature
2 -Tbl. Olive oil
salt
pepper
cotton kitchen twine
Roasting Pan

Preheat oven to 425


Preparation:
1. Combine the butter and sage to form a paste. Season with salt and pepper
2. With index finger, carefully separate the skin from the breast meat of the chicken to form a pocket . Do not tear the skin off the bird.
3. Smear the butter mixture on the breast meat under the skin. Try to cover the majority of the breast without tearing the skin.
4. Liberally salt and pepper the cavity of the chicken.
5. Place the lemon slices and onion segments into the chicken cavity.
6. Truss the chicken
7. Salt and pepper the entire chicken and coat the skin with the olive oil.
8. Place chicken in roasting pan breast-side up.
9. Roast in oven for 25 minutes. Reduce heat to 375. Continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer registers 160 near the breast bone and the thigh. Approximately 45 - 55 minutes more.
10. Remove from oven and let rest for 15-20 minutes. Slice and serve.

Serve with a medium bodied, fruit forward red. Examples: New world Pinot Noir, California Zinfandel, Cru Beaujolais (Fleurie, Julienas) or a Chinon.



OFFICE PARTIES

The office party is a strange bird. Often political maneuvering and playing to the boss can dampen the spirit and twist the intention of the gathering. Last night at our "office party," so to speak, neither occurred.

Actually it wasn't an office party at all. Yes the bar was well stocked and the drinks flowed, the food was very good, weather-perfect, music-OK (our "Boss" tends to sneak in some new-age country music now and again- but we love him anyway), but really: the people made it. Fifty colleagues with varying points of view, diverse backgrounds, old friends and new all congregated under the stars, left the office at the office and ate, drank and laughed well into the night.

Build-your-own cedar plank salmon tacos / burritos, chips and salsa and rice and beans made up the menu. The salmon cook deserves kudos. The well seasoned, caramelized skin-side and moist, perfectly cooked fish resulted in a great preparation. Nearing the end of the evening, out came cheesecakes. Ok, that was bold and a crowd pleaser. Only amongst friends can tequila segway into salmon tacos and finish with heavy duty cheese cakes.

Maybe the "Office Parties" revisited on the hit TV drama, Mad Men, are a relic of a different era, however, one thing remains: People make The Party a party. Perfectly cooked salmon and an open bar can't hurt though.

Cheers


Saturday, August 28, 2010

FRIDAY DINNER?

After a long week, the thought of stopping by the market and heading into the kitchen to cook may seem arduous to some. To others a reprieve.

To those not fortunate enough to live in a city where the accepted Friday routine may include dashing off to a bar with co-workers for a few libations then meeting up later with someone special for dinner and a night out (memories of NYC abound here), time in the kitchen may do the trick. I no longer live in a city that relishes the buzz and energy that is Friday. No, in Southern California we re-seal ourselves in our car, sit in traffic, contemplate stopping somewhere to do something, text and plan and meet up with people sometimes. But it's not the same. So....off to the market.

Yes, Sunday lunch is a staple in Italy, France and the south. But Friday dinner can provide the same sort of atmosphere for you, friends and family and not to mention a romantic rendezvous. Turn off the cell phone, put on some Yo-Yo Ma or some Miles Davis, pour your favorite and turn on the stove. Before you know it, conversation will flow, the week will melt away and the weekend has begun.

Yesterday we did just that. A free range chicken roasted with sage and lemon; served with sauteed heirloom fingerling potatoes and simple salad. Paired with an outstanding 2007, Les Pensees de Pallus, Chinon, France: It was a perfect end to a hectic week.


Sunday, August 22, 2010

BJORNSTAD PINOT NOIR


The first pinot of the season was a resounding success. Although the temperatures in San Diego have suddenly risen to summer-like conditions, we decided to venture into the red wine shelves of the storage unit.

The 2006 Bjornstad Hellenthal Pinot Noir is a fabulous wine that captures the essence of the rugged Sonoma coast terroir. The Hellenthal vineyard is located less than five miles from the Pacific Ocean where long wet and cool winters are the norm. On the nose, cassis and cherry are dominant. In the glass, the color is a deep ruby and offers good acid and tannin structure with a long finish. The bold flavors of cherry, anise and spice combine for a complex wine that stands up to various robust dishes.

We served it with a Prime-Rib eye steak, pomme darphin and a simple heirloom tomato / frisee salad. For dessert: a comte aged twelve months.

Excellent
Approximate retail price: $50.00


Monday, August 9, 2010

THE BACCHUS REPORT

With the end of summer fast approaching, a tasting report is in order. Soon the reds that are lying in wait and resting comfortably in the 56 degree storage cabinet will take center stage and the fall season will commence. First, however, warm weather favorites deserve their due. What a great summer it was for the nose and palette.

Veuve Clicquot, yellow label. A perennial favorite for those who enjoy a mid-to-full bodied Champagne. This yellow-golden wine made predominately of pinot noir and chardonnay grapes always delivers good fruit, structure and a hint of vanilla. To celebrate a special birthday in late July with a wino-dominant group of friends, we served yellow label with a pastry buffet of chocolate brownies a la Thomas Keller, strawberries, lemon tarts and Karen Krasne's Blood Orange Ricotta torte. What an evening.

Sancerre. This ever pleasing, food friendly import from the Loire valley should always be at the ready for impromptu affairs, summer dinners or whenever goat cheese appears on the table. The 100% sauvignon blanc wine is renowned for it's dry, light-to-medium body with aromatics and flavor of peaches. A personal favored menu to pair with a Sancerre is an Omelette aux Fines Herbes for two, salad of frisee, heirloom tomatoes and olives. For desert, a duo of goat cheeses: Crottin de Chavignol and Cypress Grove Chevre- Humbolt Fog or Purple Haze and an artisanal baguette...come on...unbeatable.

New world Sauvignon Blanc (SB). California produces some of the greatest SB in the world. The always pleasing Cakebread SB with the pop of golden delicious apples tempered with lime and mineral offers so many culinary pairings. Local halibut, shrimp or scallops prepared with minimum interference from the cook are always a hit with Cakebread. Morgan and Frogs Leap are other outstanding picks that offer crisp and refreshing wines with notes of citrus and lemon zest. Always good to keep a case in storage.

Rose: What would summer be without classic French Rose. Tavel, the dry rose from the rhone valley is a summer staple. Venturing into the Provencal wines brings a more fruit forward tasting profile and is synonymous with warm afternoons and casual gatherings. The strawberry flavors and cleansing acidity of the Cotes de Provence offerings lend themselves to lazy days feasting on tapenade, tomato saffron poached shell fish and conversation with the sounds of Dave Brubeck as a back drop.

Yes, summer is winding down. Schools are opening soon, high school and college football teams are preparing for the season and new college freshman are in their final few weeks before the big move-in. It's almost time to trade in the Bermuda shorts for long pants and sweaters and the leaves will be changing color back home in a month or two. Great memories of summer... but...where's my decanter? The big reds are calling.





Wednesday, August 4, 2010

CAMBRIDGE, MA


BARTLEY'S

Oh sure, I could have loaded a plethora of photos of Cambridge, MA replete with the majestic buildings of Harvard or the serene Charles River, but Bartley's deserves top billing. With all the seriousness that surrounds the town, higher education at Ivy League institutions is serious..you know, Cambridge is very fun. In the tradition of real college towns (Ann Arbor, Chapel Hill, Charlottesville, Princeton, Amherst) Cambridge has a great mix of good traditional and new concept restaurants...and undergrad fare, beer bars, upscale drinking establishments and a broad span of hotels. Lots of coffee, of course, as well.

Bartley's is one such tradition in a town full of them. Literally across the street from the Harvard campus, the restaurant has been serving students, professors and visitors alike since 1960. Hamburgers, a full page of them, are the central focus of the menu and all are named and creatively described. I had the "Ted Kennedy: a plump, liberal amount of burger with cheddar, mushrooms and fries." There is the Mitt Romney, John Kerry, Bill Clinton: the list goes on. One offering I did take exception to was the "A-Rod: A real turkey burger w/ blue cheese and hot sauce." Ahh... those witty Red Sox fans. Two world championships since 1918 and they think they have a seat at the table. How are they doing this year by the way? Eating at Bartley's is an adventure. There is always a line to get in. The man pictured above sitting down writing is taking orders. When you reach the front door and are offered a table, your order is already in the kitchen. A few minutes later the food is served. An incredibly efficient operation. The dining room is small and decorated with posters, newspapers and pictures telling the story of Cambridge social life over the past fifty years. Great hand made burgers, fries and onion rings. A must visit.

We stayed at The Charles Hotel. Very modern and a great location. The hotel is situated two blocks from the square and right next to Harvard's Kennedy School of Government (HKS). For public policy and international relations wonks, HKS is a thrill to see. The service at The Charles is outstanding and all the amenities live up to the AAA-Four Diamond rating. With a vibrant lobby bar called Noir and the award winning restaurant: Rialto, it would have been easy to stay in the hotel during the evening. Cambridge has too much to offer for that though.

We, of course, ventured out every evening we were in town to taste and toast the town. Two restaurants of note we enjoyed were: The Red House and Russell House Tavern. Both are near Harvard Square and offer thoughtful, complex menus. The Red House is in...well... a small red house. The menu is local farm-to-table fare and expertly executed. We dined on whole lobster served with a lightly spiced tomato linguini and the New England classic, cracker crusted cod. This is great little restaurant that serves up fun flavorful dishes in a great old setting. For an after dinner drink in a vibrant and eclectically decorated setting: Upstairs on the Square is a perfect night cap for the evening.

The Russell House menu is more in keeping with the gastro-pub movement that has finally reached the United States from the UK. Gastro-Pubs offer serious food in a energized pub environment. We enjoyed a Charcuterie Plat with outstanding Rillettes, duck liver pate, Serrano Ham and Sauccison Sec. For main courses we sampled a classic Steak Frites and the Flat Iron steak with a savory bread pudding. Paired with a 2007 Lake Sonoma Zinfandel: Perfect.

Cambridge has it all. We were in town before and after our trip to Block Island and found it the perfect location for a stop-over before heading on our way. The energy and sophistication of real college towns offer good fun and Cambridge lived up to our expectations. The hotel staff was very professional and the restaurant and bar folks are polished, well spoken and very good at what they do. A great town.





Tuesday, July 27, 2010


BLOCK ISLAND, RI


SPRING HOUSE

Italic
MANISSES HOTEL


Vacation. After a busy conclusion to the school year, we decided on Block Island, RI for our respite. Having both visited Cape Cod and Martha's Vineyard in the past, we investigated other areas of the New England coast to experience. Block Island was recommended by a friend and a great recommendation it was. Total relaxation, good restaurants, no TV in the room, vibrant bars, pristine beaches, no cell phones, limited web access, little to no traffic... in other words...quiet.

Block Island is accessible via ferry, small plane and private boat. Ferries run from various points in Rhode Island, New York and Connecticut. We used the high speed ferry from Pt. Judith, RI. and arrived in about thirty minutes. A limited amount of cars can be transported on the traditional ferry.

After consulting an acquaintance in NYC who owns property on the island, we made reservations at Hotel Manisses. A word on the Block Island hotels. All are seasonal and very old. Most are only opened spring through early fall. You won't find a chrome and glass convention hotel on the island with business centers or spas etc....thank goodness. The Manisses is a small inn with an outstanding restaurant: more on that later. Our room was on the third floor and decorated in 1920's decor with a ceiling fan (no AC- don't need it) and had a partial view of the ocean. The hotel has a great old style lobby and front porch that's perfect for reading or just sitting around talking. Breakfast is complimentary. When informed of the complimentary breakfast, I envisioned the standard coffee and sub-par bagel/muffin offering that has become the industry standard for "complimentary breakfast." No, this was a full buffet. Poached local striped bass, eggs, pancakes (good ones) breads and breakfast pastries etc. served on a deck over looking the ocean. This was a very nice start to the day.

Our day...Well, after breakfast, usually a walk then a mid-morning book / nap. About noon we would rally our energy and walk into town for lunch and maybe go down to the beach and ....well...do nothing. Then maybe a coffee and a stop at some of the shops. Possibly a nap or read more. Vacationing is exhausting. Then up the hill to Spring House for a late afternoon libation. Spring House (pictured above) is great old hotel that attracts a fun, well-heeled crowd in the afternoon for drinks on the lawn or deck with Gin and Tonics and Sea Breezes as far as the eye could see. In the evening a live band plays and the indoor bar fills. If you have ever seen the movie Dirty Dancing, filmed at Lake Lure, NC, than you can envision the scene at Spring House.

Food on the island is very good. For a traditional New England lobster roll, Finn's Seafood Restaurant is the place. Claw and knuckle meat bound with a perfect amount of well seasoned mayonnaise and served on a toasted buttery roll with lettuce makes for a great lunch. There are two dinner restaurants of note on the island, Manisses and Winfield's. We dined at Manisses twice and Winfield's once. Both are very good. The waitstaffs are knowledgeable and professional. For a seasonal vacation town, you surprisingly don't find the summer break college student type waiters at these two restaurants. The Manisses has the feel of the old Brigantine in Coronado, except the food is many levels above anything the Brig has ever done. If old dark wood, five deep at the bar, full dining room and a gregarious barkeep (Jerry) is your idea of a good night out, than The Manisses fits the bill. The crowd is NYC and Boston couples and small groups that are accustomed to the outstanding restaurant scenes in those cities. The bar has great energy of conversation and laughs where you won't find the cell phone / texting obsessives of southern California or young children coloring at the bar (an unfortunate phenomenon that seems to grow every year). Definitely an urban dining experience that just happens to be on a vacation island. The menu is full of comfort dishes and the execution is flawless. No foam, far flung ingredients or de-constructed plates, just local farm / sea-to-table products. The scallops were perfectly sauteed and tasted of the buttery richness that is only achieved with Maine / New England scallops. Grilled local long line sword fish served over lobster potato puree makes you sit back and pause over the luxurious combination of flavors. The often duplicated, rarely perfected lobster-potato puree is extraordinary. The classic puree is expertly seasoned and combined with copious amounts of butter and large chunks of lobster. It was a perfect accompaniment to the sword fish. We also enjoyed outstanding local oysters served on the half-shelf with a lime juice mignonette and a dish of striped bass and clams served with a complex tomato - saffron sauce that was outstanding. The wine list is very good and priced well. On our second night we ordered a 2007 Morgan Sauvignon Blanc (a consistent and well priced SB). After a few minutes our waiter returned with the news that the Morgan had not "made the boat" that morning and therefore was not available. You don't hear that very often. Without hesitating, she offered to substitute a 2008 Cakebread Sauvignon Blanc at the same price as the Morgan. Wow, the Cakebread is double the wine and the price. Wasn't expecting that. Winfield's was more of the same. Good crowd, well informed waitstaff and very good cooks on the line. We, of course, had to try the scallops in order to continue with our island hopping campaign of local shellfish and fish. They were outstanding as well: Great sear and plumb rich flavor. For a luxurious first course to compliment the scallops, we ordered the lobster macaroni and cheese. If ever in the New England area, it's a must try. Penne Rigate with knuckle and claw meat baked in a creamy mornay style sauce and topped with a slight amount of mild white cheddar. Kudos to the cooks. The dish, cooked to perfection, married all the ingredients without over powering the lobster. Working with lobster and cream is an open invitation to kitchen disaster. When attempted by shoemaker cooks, bland rubbery lobster drowned in pasty cream and limp pasta is a common unfortunate outcome. Not here though. Outstanding. There is something to be said for cooking with local ingredients for a demanding clientele. I doubt these restaurants would survive at this level, catering to dinners from the two major restaurant cities nearby, without the obvious skill on the line.

Needless to say, our time on Block Island was exactly what we craved, quiet time away with nothing to do other than what we wanted to do. If you not opposed to "Nantucket Reds" being de rigueur, little to no technology, good food and wine, plenty of reading time, lazy days and long walks, then Block Island is for you.