Crepes, Heitz Cellars and Bocuse Revisited
After a solid three hour training session on the bike in perfect early summer weather, replete with tempo and short burst intervals on the hills, we visited our friends' new creperie in the South Park section of San Diego. Chef Patrick Ponstay has joined forces with Christine Perez and Jerome Gombert (owners of the neighborhood gem- Vagabon) to create Cafe Madeleine. Located in a perfect corner storefront at 30th and Juniper, the eye-catching red facade, Parisian cafe chairs and well executed sweet and savory crepes combines for a relaxing rendezvous. What better way to refuel than with a ham, Bechamel and cheese crepe or the stalwart chocolate and banana crepe. The restaurant has only been opened a few weeks, but I'm sure we have found another great venue for foodie afternoons.
Had a red meat craving this weekend. Never a bad thing I believe. So, off to Siesels Market. One of the few remaining butcher shops in the San Diego area. A place where the men behind the counter wear aprons, carry knives and there is no sign of plastic wrap or cell phones, just butcher paper. Crazy, I know. They had a great selection of prime and choice tenderloins, rib-eye and strip steaks: along with lamb, pork, veal and poultry. Decided on a Filet Mignon for a change. I'm mostly a rib-eye or onglet fan but a filet opens the door to my past. Sauces. The most challenging task on the line in fine dinning-rooms around the world is combining herbs, fat, stock and aromatics to create a sauce of balanced flavor to compliment a host of dishes. The fusion-confusion, stack the food, drown it with as many chilies as possible chefs frown on the nuanced touch of the saucier. No wonder it is a dying art: it takes time and skill. Steak Au Poivre, pommes sautees a cru, salad of endive and red bell pepper and Gruyere would be a perfect end to a great day. I pulled out a Paul Bocuse cookbook to view the master's rendition of Steak Au Poivre. He, of course, adds a slight twist to the traditional sauce accompanying the pepper crusted filet. Routinely, shallots are added to the saute pan after the steaks are cooked and deglazed with brandy. A spot of veal stock is added with cream and reduced to the correct consistency. Bocuse adds creme fraiche and Dijon mustard instead of stock and cream. Once again, leave it to a Michelin Three Star Chef to add a layered dimension to a classic dish. Perfect.
Well, we pulled the cork on our last bottle of Heitz Cellars - Bella Oaks Cabernet 2000. While visiting Napa Valley last December we stumbled upon a great opportunity at the Heitz Cellar's tasting room. The winery opened their cellar and made the 2000 Belle Oaks Cab available to vineyard visitors at a reduced price. Granted, the 2000 was nearing it's down turn in the flavor profile, but after some serious "tasting" we enjoyed the wine and made a purchase. Bordelais style, cherry, plum, terroir and mature tannins...why not. After many great dinners with Bella Oaks on the table we bid adieu. I feel a trip to Napa coming on.
