BAKERIES
Growing up in a mid-sized city in North Carolina, we had two bakeries, Rolling Pin and Townhouse. Both were independently owned and operated and specialized in classic Americana; Doughnuts, cookies, cakes, brownies, cinnamon rolls and bread. My memories are of the 70's and early 80's, so this was well before the commercially baked, chemically infused, giant sized muffin and scone craze of the 90's attacked our taste buds. Well, I have found a traditional American bakery in North San Diego that has returned sanity to the baking profession: Village Mill Bread Co., located at 12845 El Camino Real, Del Mar, CA.
Village Mill hits the right senses. Warm dry air, a full view of the baking kitchen, cooling racks right up next to the display case and that unmistakable aroma of flour, cinnamon and sugar. The beauty of the bakeries of my youth and Village Mill is they do what they do and do it well. No over extension. They are bakers, not pastry chefs, and want it that way. With a small retail area in front of the kitchen, Village Mill offers some of the best baked goods I have found in San Diego. The muffins are moderate in size and pack a powerful punch of flavor, moistness and texture. Cookies are prepared correctly, which means the sugar level is in balance with the other spices and ingredients and baked to a nice soft interior with a substantial exterior crunch. The bread offerings are traditional sandwich loaf style and sliced on the premises. I imagine the bread is more of my parents and grandparents generation, rich in flavor with substantial texture. Definitely not the mass produced grocery store bread brands that have that gummy, odd chemical taste profile. The cinnamon rolls....just try them.
Next time you are in the Carmel Valley area of San Diego stop by Village Mill and try a pumpkin or carrot cake muffin. Both offer gobs of natural flavor. Grab a chocolate chip cookie for later and enjoy the semi-sweet chips combined with a healthy dose of vanilla. At first you will probably be a bit stunned due to the lack of chemicals but give it a second and your body will remember what baked good are supposed to taste like. You won't be sorry.
