Panettone
The first time I tasted Panettone was when living in NYC. I was fortunate enough to have lived in the South Murray Hill section of Manhattan (some people call it curry hill because of all the Indian restaurants on 28th) where an outstanding food shop named Todaro Brothers is located on 2nd ave. between 30th and 31st. What a great place. Packed with mostly Italian delicacies: Cheeses, meats, pasta, cookies, pastry, coffee and all the then hard to find cooking essentials like dried mushrooms and imported pistachio and tomato paste. The list is endless. The great thing abut Todaro Brothers is, it was and is a neighborhood shop. Much smaller than the eponymous Balduccis over in the village, but every bit has sophisticated in its offerings.
Which leads me to the Panettone. Around Christmas time, boxed Panettone appeared in grocery stores around the city. Now, they are even available in Southern California markets. I never knew what a Panettone was until a few culinary school classmates and I were in Todaro Brothers shopping for a dinner party. FYI: When three culinary students decide to have a dinner party around Christmas, it can get a bit out of hand. NYC apartments aren't exactly equipped with enough ventilation and storage space to do ten courses for eight people not to mention all the wine, but it was fun. Back to the Panettone. My classmates described it as a Christmas bread with dried fruit baked into it. Well, being from the south, that sounded like a fruitcake. And to me a fruitcake had dual use: either as a doorstop or a cake some family and friends somehow enjoyed. Maybe the bourbon laced eggnog common on the southern holiday table had something to do with it? Anyhow, I was skeptical. But wow was I wrong. Buttery almost Brioche-like in texture and richness with dried orange and raisins bursting with flavor. Panettone is a must around the holidays. Served toasted plain or with a little jam and a cup of strong coffee it is a great way to start the day.
Far from Todaro Brothers these days, we recently ordered a Panettone Milanese from Emporio Rulli located in Larkspur California. It is outstanding. Chef Rulli and his staff prepare each one adhering to traditional techniques and utilizing only natural ingredients. You won't find any ingredients that require a chemistry degree to pronounce; just egg yolks, butter, wheat flour, candied orange peel and golden raisins. Order early, they have been known to shut down the kitchen if they are inundated with orders.
On this rainy cool morning; life is pretty good.
