THE SEASON

Since the madness of Thanksgiving is over, we can now enjoy the food, drink and celebration season of the year. All the great cities of the world are decking the halls, lighting the candles and pulling corks.

In my restaurant days, the period from Thanksgiving to New Years Day was the busiest, craziest and most fun time of the year. Every night was a new adventure. The guests were out to indulge their every whim and we were there to stretch our culinary muscles. Truffles, foie gras, oysters, venison, duck, goose, caviar, racks of veal, morels, chestnuts, wild boar, sauce poivrade, sauce perigourdine, squab, quail eggs, chocolate souffle, Champagne granita... I loved it all. Our menus were complex and labor intensive. Every real cook loves every minute of it.

The glow of the December dining room was unique. Regular guests, dressed to the hilt, stopped by en route to parties to share a glass and set plans for dinners to come. Familiar faces with out of town guests filled our room wanting, demanding to be wowed. Every city I cooked in had her own style but the electricity was universal. New York, San Diego, Atlanta and Joigny France were all great spots to play in and practice the craft of holiday gastronomy. I was lucky.

We've started our season and I hope all of you have as well.

Cheers!