Sunday, August 7, 2011

Vagabonder is going on sabbatical. 

A new door is opening in my life very soon. Graduate school commences on Aug 25. 

See you next summer.

Go Quakers!
it's time for serious people to make serious decisions.

this is life...there are no do-overs. 

Thursday, July 14, 2011


French Food Safari


French Food Safari


French Food Safari
This a great tour of the gastronomic heritage of France.
Before you act, listen. Before you react, think. 
Before you spend, earn. Before you criticize, wait. Before you pray, forgive. Before you quit, try.

Ernest Hemingway
ovadia and sons

Monday, July 11, 2011


SUMMERTIME 

Spent a great Sunday afternoon at the outdoor patio at Sbicca Bistro in Del Mar. We enjoyed a nice crisp Talley Chardonnay, fish tacos, shrimp salad and conversation. Perfect summer temperatures in the 70's  and a cool breeze off the Pacific. 
US WOMEN'S SOCCER

Playing with 10 players, questionable officiating, heat and over time..the US Women defeated Brazil with focus and guts.  While  Brazil relied on "gamesmanship" i.e. taking dives and faking injuries late in the match, the US, instead, played within themselves, executed their game-plan and did what Americans do on the world stage. Believe. 

Never Quit 

Never

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Dans la cuisine de Sophie: Purée de pommes de terre rose à la vanille, grilla...

This is Interesting ...and looks tasty too.

Dans la cuisine de Sophie: Purée de pommes de terre rose à la vanille, grilla...: "Vacances. La vie d'une pomme de terre c'est parfois prendre une teinte un peu girly. A l'origine, des betteraves cuites en croûte de sel f..."

Dans la cuisine de Sophie: Haricots verts, pêches blanches et amandes fraîche...

This Looks Good Too.

Dans la cuisine de Sophie: Haricots verts, pêches blanches et amandes fraîche...: "Plusieurs fois je l'ai pris, feuilleté, admiré puis reposé sur l'étagère. Et cela a duré 7 mois. A chaque fois le même sentiment de timidit..."
Bologna

Wednesday, June 29, 2011


The Kings of Pastry

The film, Kings of Pastry offers the first ever look into the kitchens of the Meilleur Ouvrier de France - Pastry competition. It expertly captures the essence of great pastry chefs. The dedication, discipline, emotion and the insatiable drive for perfection is on display throughout the film. If you ever wondered what those blue, white and red stripes on the collar of some French Chefs are for, than this film will explain it. 

Saturday, June 25, 2011

Friday Dinner

After receiving an outstanding recommendation from a rep at Kermit Lynch, we enjoyed a fun bottle of wine last night with our hanger steak and pommes darphin. The 2009 Beaumes-de-Venise rouge, Domaine de Durban lived up to its billing. With good fruit, earthiness and silky tannins, the wine married very well with the rich flavor of the onglet. If you are fan of Rhone style wines then you'll welcome the nuanced sophistication of the Beaume-de-Venise rouge. 

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

This concludes our salute to the artisans who have risen above the big box retail, cookie cutter world of the twenty-first century and practiced their craft to their self imposed standards of attempted perfection.

Chateau Haut Brion

For the Bordeaux lover, like me, Haut Brion is a benchmark in the finest wine producing regions in the world. Obviously not to every ones taste, but the care and exacting standards employed there from harvest to crush to barrel to bottle, represents an intrinsic desire for sublime greatness. 


A Voice Bigger Than Life

Dave Brubeck
The master. Passion, absolute dedication to his craft...timeless



DANIEL

For a true foodie, the name Daniel is all that needs to said. He has been one of the top Chefs in the world for many years. He actually graded my final exam at the French Culinary Institute and I had the honor of doing a stage at Restaurant Daniel during my stint in NYC. I can't fully describe the experience, other than to say perfection personified.

Pastry Chef

Jacques Torres MOF is a leading pastry chef in the world. After many years leading some of the best pastry kitchens on the planet,  he  now devotes his energy solely to chocolate. Having had the pleasure to do a stage under Chef Torres at the famed Le Cirque 2000 in NYC, I can attest to his passion and almost effortless execution of pastry technique while imparting an expectation of perfection in all those around him. He is an unbelievably gifted Chef and teacher.





An American Institution

If you are a fan of handmade classic men's shoes, then you'll enjoy this video of the Alden shoe factory in Middleborough, Massachusetts. Another example of old style artisan dedication to creating something of quality.

There is always more to it than you think....


Read a much needed and interesting article Here about the artisans behind the artists of the culinary world.

Saturday, June 18, 2011

Flexing the Culinary Muscles

Every once in a while it's fun to challenge yourself in some non-profession related endeavor. Whether it's playing golf from the back tees, riding your bike with current elite racers....up hill, re-reading War and Peace or The Prince; whatever the challenge may be, the challenge is. So, last Saturday I set out to replicate a meal I once routinely executed as a professional cook. Souffle au fromage. 

Using the same technique I learned the hard way, everything worked out great. The height was perfect and the internal cheese and egg mixture was perfectly cooked(airy and flavorful with good texture). Chef's truc- Correctly preparing a well seasoned base of roux blanc, egg yolk, comte cheese, salt, pepper and nutmeg then carefully combining it with stiff peaked egg whites is paramount.  Baking the mixture in a buttered, cheese dusted mold, while hoping the oven temperature is consistent,  renders an outstanding souffle. Served with a salad, baguette and high quality french butter (Isigny Ste. Mere) made for an outstanding occasion. 

Give it a try. A few hours challenging your self has got to be better than reading and sending text messages, face booking ad nauseum or fretting over work related emails. I know...I know we are the busiest, most time crunched people on the planet ; thats what the "experts" tell us anyway. Even if the "souffle" falls theres still your dinner-mate, the experience....and the wine. 

Wine of the night:
2009, Domaine Costal, Les Truffieres, Chablis France.  I think I did taste a hint of truffle this time. I'll continue to pull corks to verify though. 
Friday Reprieve

Last weekend seemed to be surrounded by France. After work on Friday we dashed off to view Woody Allen's new film: Midnight in Paris. Great fun. The cinematography was outstanding and the acting ...very Allen-esque. We then dined in La Jolla at one of our favorite restaurants: Tapenade where Chef Jean-Michel Diot  expertly prepares classically inspired modern French fare. We enjoyed the summer classic; Lobster Risotto along with escargot, braised pork belly, duxelles stuffed pork tenderloin and concluded with a duo of lemon : sorbet and tarte. Outstanding.

Saturday evening found me flexing the culinary muscles. 

Stay Tuned.
WIne of the night.
2006 Bourgogne, Cuvee Potel.


Preview of Midnight in Paris

Saturday, June 11, 2011

God's Country

Traveled to North Carolina recently to attend a family gathering that included a high school graduation. Great trip. Saw family and experienced that comfortable feel of the southeast. 

Of course the highlight, sorry JQ, was the pig... North Carolina Bar-B-Que. In the south Bar-B-Que is a noun. Out here in CAL, it's a verb; as in "why don't you come over Saturday we're going to Bar-B-Que some chicken." Well where I'm from, Bar-B-Que is slow cooked pig over hickory wood and served with hush puppies, cole slaw, beans and in eastern NC; Brunswick Stew. Washed down with Coke, beer, sweet tea  and or Bourbon.  Now,  Bar-B-Que sauce is a sticky issue. In NC there are two types. A vinegar based sauce with a little kick from red pepper flakes and is a very nice complement to the rich, moist pulled and chopped pork. The other NC sauce is a thick sweeter option that also is very nice with the pork. Both are totally a personal choice. I enjoy both. On our most recent trip the vinegar based sauce was served and was outstanding. Books have been written and much scholarly research has been done on the subject, so I'll refrain from providing too much information on the virtues of the pig. Except to say: NC Bar-B-Que permeates the social fabric of the state. From black-tie affairs to college parties and family gatherings, NC bar-B-Que can not be duplicated anywhere else. Any true blooded Tarheel will have Carolina in their mind when the slightest whiff of hickory smoke and pork enters the atmosphere. 

Click below to view a performance from another homesick Tarheel.

Monday, May 30, 2011

Just Say Thanks...nothing more is needed or wanted.

Sunday, May 29, 2011

Moving
Moved this week. Never a fun time but it opens up a whole new area to explore. Still near the coast, great training loops (have always ridden up here but now with no commute), good restaurant scene and more friends and colleagues nearby. Most important though, all the wine is safe and secure in it's new home. Resting and waiting.

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Paris Roubaix

The queen of the classics, the hell of the north...

Click below to view the Paris Roubaix bike race from the perspective of the Garmin-Cervelo Professional Cycling team. Definitely have a good quality Belgian beer and enjoy.


Sunday, May 22, 2011

Giro d'Italia 2011


Click on the links below for Giro highlights. 


Giro Stage 9

Giro 2011 ZONOCOLAN stage
It's Grande Tour Time

Well, summer is almost here and for cycling fans that means the grande tour season is upon us. Currently in Italy the Giro d'Italia is finishing it's second week of racing. One week to go until the final dash in to Milan. The majestic snow capped Dolomite mountains are the playground this week for the riders. Brutal climbs exist in northern Italy and having ridden some of the mountain passes in the Veneto region, I marvel at the courage and ability of the pros. 

Tonight, to celebrate the Giro,: Spicy and Sweet sausages, rosemary polenta, tomato compote and a rustic red wine. 

Cheers

2009, Monferrato Rosso, Allesandra Bodda, Piedmont.
CHABLIS

Finally pulled the cork on the 2009, Domain Costal "Les Truffieres."  Brought back the good memories of tasting Chablis in Chablis, France. Clean, crisp minerality with a zesty mouth feel. Perfect pairing with the shrimp and scallops we enjoyed for dinner. The tasting notes provided by Kermit Lynch mentioned a hint of truffle... didn't taste it this time, but I'm willing to open as many bottles as it takes to experience the unmistakable essence of the famed truffle. 
Southern Rhone

Tasted a great Rhone this week. The 2009 Cotes du Rhone, "Pourpre," Maxime-Francois Laurent delivered exactly what a southern Rhone should: Deep purple color, fresh fruit, tempered tannins and earthy freshness. Distributed by Kermit Lynch in Berkley, Ca and available by ordering directly from their wine reps. Looks to be a summer favorite. 

$22.00 USD


Sunday, May 8, 2011

WINE

Wine is many things to many people. To some it's merely one of many alcoholic beverages to choose from, to others ..a bore, but to many; wine is a hobby that provides a lifetime of searching and tasting and collecting. Whether enjoyed in a cold, damp tasting room, at an intimate dinner for two or with good friends; tasting and pairing wine is always a great experience.

Our cellar is growing and is full of interesting bottles from Europe and the United States. Laying down 1st growth Bordeaux is fun but researching bottles from different regions and developing a  nice selection of food-friendly wine is good fun. Recently, we've been bringing in a nice selection of Burgundies (red and white). 

Having lived, literally, over the hill from the town of Chablis during my cooking stint in France, I always search for high quality Chablis wine. The 1970's era boxed "chablis" sold in the US severely tainted the name Chablis here, so selections are still fairly limited. Without  Kermit Lynch in Berkley and Garagiste.com in Seattle, I doubt my Chablis selection would be as solid as it is. If you are interested in a food wine with a tasting profile of green apple, citrus and  a hint of vanilla, then Chablis is for you. Paired with fresh water fish, halibut, scallops or even chicken, Chablis' balanced fruit and acidity makes for a perfect pairing. 

Back in the USA. Being a huge fan of Chateau Montalena in Calistoga, Ca, I find it difficult to turn down an opportunity to add to our collection. After receiving an email from the winery recently announcing new releases from their cellar, a few bottles of Montalena Cabernet has recently been added to our vertical. Montalena cab is a known for it's deep ruby color with blackberry and plum fruit on the palette and firm tannins. Always a winner when red meat or game appears on the menu. 


Cheers...pull that cork!
SPRING CLASSICS

To view a great video on the Garmin-Cervelo pro cycling team's 2011 Tour of Flanders, click on the link below.

Monday, April 25, 2011

CHAPEAU PHILIPPE GILBERT !


Ah..the Spring Classics are over for another year. What a season! For the un-initiated, the Spring Classics are the professional bike races held in northern France, Belgium and Holland during March and April. They are my favorite races of the year. Yes, the three week long grand tours of France, Italy and Spain are beautiful events that garner most of the press coverage world wide. Here in the US it seems only the Tour de France gets any respect, although that may be changing, we had pretty good TV coverage of the Classics this year. The tours are a majestic chess match that requires a special type of rider who can climb the high mountains, conserve energy, work well within a powerful team,  and know when to attack for greatest effect. The Spring Classics, however, are for a different type of rider. These are the hard men of pro cycling. Not to take anything away from the grand tour contenders, but the one-day races demand  big, powerful -"he who suffers the longest has a chance at glory" racers. Riders who are usually 5-10 to 6-1, 165 to 185 lbs and can motor over the cobbled roads of Flanders and the narrow, hilly routes through the Ardenne, for often times more than six hours, are the most likely champions of these great events. The feather-weight climbers who dance on their peddles through the Alps and Dolomites  come summer are phenomenal to see, yet are usually not animators in the spring. And the weather! Early spring in northern Europe can bring sunny, warm temperatures or snowy, wet, bone-chilling conditions. The races go on regardless and only adds to the drama unfolding on the road.  

This year a Belgian rider named Philippe Gilbert won three Classics: Amstel Gold, Fleche Wallonne and Liege-Bastogne-Liege.  All won with class and leg searing power. 


To all the classics riders....raise a beer....Cheers. 

Now we wait another year for the Classics to be run again.    



SPRING BREAK 2011

Well, we started spring break last week and it has been outstanding. Not outstanding in an undergraduate debaucherous way but rather a much needed respite. While the students of the senior class at the school we teach at are nervously deciding where they will attend college in the fall, we are reading, riding, eating and tasting wine.  

The wine deliveries from my friends at Garagiste WInes, Kermit Lynch and Montelena will continue into this week. More on that in a later entry.

In the spirit of pairing drink with literature, I am fully engaged right now in Graham Greene's The Comedians and if you are a rum aficionado I would recommend the pairing. I am not, so bourbon it is. Having spent some time in Haiti during the 1990's, Green's words are penetrating, but would we expect anything else from him?


Cheers.

Monday, April 18, 2011

Les Halles, NYC

If you are a fan of Anthony Bourdain's cooking, writing or television career then you'll know this restaurant. Located on Park and 28th, the Les Halles staff offers an outstanding opportunity to experience expertly prepared classic french bistrot dishes. It's a great neighborhood restaurant: dark, crowded and energetic. 

If you're in the mood for red meat, frites and big chewy red wines; then you'll love Les Halles.  We always make an effort to dine here when we're back in the old neighborhood and it's always a start to a fun night out. 


Sunday, April 3, 2011


La Grenouille, NYC
March, 2011

As one of the few remaining temples of haute cuisine in the United States, dining at La Grenouille is to step back in time to an era when fine dining was defined by culinary expertise coupled with understated and refined service. With all due respect to trend chasing restaurateurs, occasionally dining in luxury offers a respite from the hyper-paced, cookie cutter and intrusive cell-yell world outside. 

From the moment you enter La Grenouille, and receive the gracious greeting by the Matre d' (usually in French - which is a fun test), you realize  a special evening is underway. The perfect lighting, interesting art on the walls and comfortable banquettes set a relaxed yet sophisticated ambiance for serious dinning. 


The food and wine are well.....outstanding. The wine list is vast and replete with classic old world offerings and new world stalwarts.  We usually choose red Burgundy when dining at La Grenouille. Mainly because they have selections not easily found on the west coast and I believe Pinot Noir is a versatile food wine that marries with a host of dining options. The food is prepared with the passion and technical expertise of professional artisans. I doubt wanna-be actors, surfers or college students are allowed on the line there. On this cool early spring evening we began with Champagne while we enjoyed a silky and perfectly prepared foie gras au torchon with warm brioche. After the bottle of Gevrey-Chambertin “Mes Favorites” Alain Burguet 2006  arrived, we dined on duck breast, cote de boeuf and the signature chocolate souffle. 


The room was lively with that sophisticated New York feel and after a few hours of culinary bliss, great conversation and pampering we left to a warm "a bientot" from the Maitre 'd . We strolled the neighborhood and eventually tucked into a spot for a cognac to end our evening out.  


Life is good.

Thursday, March 24, 2011

Ceci -Cela

A Great pastry shop in SoHo. No fuss, just expertly created classic French pastry. It's been around for many years and has stood the test of time. For Opera, eclairs, napoleons, tarte aux citrons etc.etc.etc. It's a must stop when you desire the classics. 

On Spring and Lafayette at the uptown 6 train entrance. 

Monday, March 14, 2011

Joe Morello Dies

Drummer with the Dave Brubeck Quartet died Saturday.

RIP

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Saturday, March 12, 2011



NYC, March 2011.

After what has become de rigueur in domestic air travel, we arrived in NYC four hours late and did not get to our mid-town hotel until 1:00am, a morning jaunt downtown to visit one of my favorite espresso bars in the US helped us forget the lunacy of commercial airlines. Gimme! Coffee is a spot for the purest. No half caf -decaf mocha frappa-something with part skim part soy blah blah blah is served here. If you fancy expertly pulled espresso, cappuccino, americanos etc. and outstanding American style coffee then Gimme! Coffee is for you. Oh and don't bring your laptop, there are no sofas or tables. The interior is a classic European stand -up bar. It's great.

Located on Mott between Prince and Spring, Gimme! is a must visit for true lovers of artisan coffee.

Monday, March 7, 2011


CHICKEN POT PIE AND BECKHAM

Last week we had the chance to see the Los Angeles Galaxy play Club Tijuana in a preseason soccer match at the University of San Diego. A friend and colleague who works in soccer management provided us with a pair of outstanding tickets for the match...mid-field ..row "J." In a small stadium like USD's being that close to some of the best soccer players in the game was pretty amazing.

We began our outing with a stop at a great spot in San Diego called Shakespeare's Pub. After a pint or two and the house made chicken pot pie, we were off to the stadium.

A word on the match. Landon Donovan played the entire ninety minutes which was great to see him up close..right in front of us. He is a gifted athlete and watching on TV doesn't do his skill justice. David Beckham played seventy five minutes and spent a considerable amount of time in front of us as well. I know it has become quite a sport to bash Beckham. He is one of the most recognizable and highest paid athletes in the world. He lives a jet-setting life and is always clad in the most trendy fashion on the planet. But to see his footwork, first touches, crosses and distribution from a few yards away is amazing. Effortless physical efficiency differentiates the great ones from their peers and he lives up to the hype.

It was a very good match that ended up being won by Tijuana in kicks.
BASKETBALL

After a long and very fun season of assistant coaching our high school basketball team, time now exists to write again. BUT SPEAKING OF BASKETBALL...How about those HEELS. In a season of uncertainty and parity in college basketball, UNC rose to the occasion and re-found their roots in uptempo, unselfish play. Gone are the twins that needed to be home in Orange county CA and the guard who left the program via a phone call to Coach from daddy. It's been a fun team to watch: great defense, the old fast break is back and a deliberate well orchestrated half court offense led to another ACC championship.

What a game last Saturday night when the DOOK blue devils traveled the seven miles to THE UNIVERSITY to attend a basketball clinic at the Dean Smith Center. Sorry DOOKIES but the HEELS unselfish offense coupled with a relentless trapping defense rendered coach K's perimeter run and gun 3 point offense impotent (27 three point attempts by DOOK compared to UNC's 9). I was fortunate to have been in Manhattan over the weekend and had the opportunity to watch the game at a bar in my old neighborhood of Murray Hill. Surrounded by Carolina fans / alums made for great night out.

But what makes the greatest basketball rivalry so fun is we all know DOOK will be back next year as good or better... and we can't wait. That's what makes great Universities so special: a tradition of excellence...in the classroom and on the fields and courts.


Monday, January 17, 2011

BLEU BOHEME

Had the opportunity to dine this weekend with a group of colleagues at a great little neighborhood restaurant call Bleu Boheme. Located in the Kensington section of San Diego, Bleu Boheme is representative of the current restaurant scene here. A well appointed dining room, good cross section of guests, a trained wait staff and well executed comfortable offerings from the kitchen. It seems that finally our local Chefs are creating solid dishes with outstanding ingredients and good technique. All along with a keen eye on flavor and balance. Hopefully the days of FUSION-CONFUSION, stacked food cooking has been relegated to the "remember when" category of gastronomic history.

Under the tutelage of Chef Ken Irvine, the kitchen produces an excellent array of French staples. Chef Irvine is one of the old guard of San Diego Chefs and has garnered many accolades over the years. Re-connecting with him in the dinning room this weekend brought back many fond memories of my days in whites. Good luck to Ken and his staff.

I enjoyed the duck confit served with classic beluga lentils, braised cabbage and a rich duck stock flavored sauce. Others at our table dined on mussels, beef bourguignon and rack of lamb. All were very well done. For a first course to share, we opted for a platter of perfectly aged cheeses, mousse de foie gras and a nice selection of saucissons. The 2007, Drouhin, Moulin-A-Vent paired perfectly throughout the evening.

Definitely a return visit is in our future. The rest of the menu deserves a taste.

Monday, January 3, 2011

NEW YEARS DAY 2011

We dined in grand style this New Years Day. After reading an article in the New York Times Food Section listing the best dishes in the city for 2010, I set out to duplicate a rather decadent dish of Tagliatelle tossed in truffled cream sauce and finished with proscuitto. It most definitely lived up to the mention in the NYT. The sauce was made with chopped black truffles, shallots, garlic, white wine, cream and butter. No, not for the faint of heart. The finishing touches really made the sauce pop. After sweating and reducing the ingredients, tossing the al dente pasta in the sauce and finishing with strips of prosciutto, slices of black truffle, truffle oil, salt, white pepper, nutmeg and a grating of fresh Parmigiano Reggiano; you have an over the top dish. We enjoyed it as a first course and then proceeded to Noisettes of pork tenderloin and Tuscan cabbage served with a classic gastric sauce.

Paired with a 2008, Regis Bouvier, En Montre Cul, Burgundy France.

Perfect.

Happy New Year To All.